Walking an agility course can feel like solving a puzzle – there are often multiple agility handling techniques that suit a given sequence. How do you know which technique (Front Cross, Rear Cross, Reverse Wrap, Flick, etc.) will work best for your dog?
Every dog-handler team is unique, so the “right” handling choice depends on understanding your dog’s path and your team’s strengths. In this post, we’ll explore key questions to ask during your course walk, how to evaluate your dog’s lines and decision points. We’ll also cover ways to factor in your dog’s natural tendencies like preferred distance, turning ability, confidence, and motivation.
We’ll sprinkle in insights from the OneMind Dogs methodology, to help you make confident decisions. By the end, you’ll have a game plan for assessing handling options and adapting techniques to suit your team. Let’s dive in!
Key questions to ask on your course walk
One of the first steps in choosing handling techniques happens during the course walk. Use this time to analyze the course from both you and your dog’s point of view. Ask yourself these key questions as you walk the course or review a sequence:
- Where is my dog’s path? Think about the path you’d like your dog to take from start to finish. Understanding your dog’s path helps you decide which handling technique to use. Note where the path goes straight versus where it turns – these are critical areas for handling decisions. Where do you need to be, in order to help the dog stay on the ideal path?
- Where are the turns and critical points? Identify each turn on the course and any places your dog might question where to go next. At these critical points, consider multiple handling options (e.g. could you handle a turn with either a Front or Blind Cross?). Being aware of different path options for the dog on course and deciding which is better for your dog is essential.
- Which side of each obstacle should I be on? This helps determine if and where you need to change sides (execute a cross). If an upcoming turn goes right, having your dog on your left is easier for the dog and might set a tighter line. But only if you can get there in time. If not, plan a Rear Cross and cue the turn from behind.
- What is my dog’s natural tendency here? In each section, think about how your dog naturally runs. Do they tend to go wide on jumps or turn tightly? Do they charge straight ahead toward the next obstacle (even an off-course one) unless told otherwise? Anticipating your dog’s behavior lets you choose techniques that either capitalize on their strengths or compensate for their quirks.
- Where do I need to be? Plan your path in relation to your dog’s path. Your position and timing matter. For each handling option you consider, visualize whether you can realistically get to the needed spot. If one option requires you to sprint to a location you can’t reach in time, you might favor an alternative that allows you to stay behind.
- Are there any “trap” obstacles? Identify off-course temptations. Ask, “If I were my dog, which obstacle would attract me after this jump/tunnel”. If the dog’s natural line heads toward their favorite obstacle that they are not meant to take, you’ll need to give them an early cue. It’s also vital to maintain strong connection to set them on a line towards the correct obstacle. This can influence whether you choose a technique that provides a stronger cue for the upcoming turn.
By systematically asking these questions, you’ll gather the information needed to make informed handling choices. Essentially, you’re performing a mental walkthrough of your run. Evaluating how different maneuvers would guide your dog along the best path. Learn more in our free webinar – 4 steps to choosing the best agility handling techniques for your team.
Evaluating lines to help you choose agility handling techniques
Above: An example of how handling affects your dog’s line. The different colored lines are created by the handling choices.
The dog’s line
In agility, the dog’s line is everything. A smoother, more direct line means a faster run and often fewer chances for error. As you walk the course, visualize the ideal line for your dog between each obstacle. Then consider how different handling choices would alter that line.
Tight vs. wide turns
If a sequence demands a tight turn, you might favor handling that cues collection (slowing down). For instance, a Reverse Wrap (a tight turn off the backside of a jump) will cue your dog to collect and turn sharply. Whereas a Backside Front Cross might result in a wider turn. If the next obstacle is close or the turn is acute, the Reverse Wrap could save time by tightening the dog’s line. If the course is more open or you cannot get there to execute a wrap, a Backside Front Cross might be the practical choice. Always compare the resulting dog lines – which option gives a smoother path to the following obstacle?
Obstacle approaches
Evaluate how each handling move sets up your dog’s approach to the next obstacle. A Front Cross before a jump can “wrap” your dog tightly over it, lining them up neatly for what’s next. Whereas a Blind Cross might have a different effect on the approach line. Neither is inherently right or wrong – it depends on what follows and how big your dog’s stride is. If a Blind Cross cues more extension than you need, a Front Cross might be the better option.
Timing and critical points
When you stay connected with your dog throughout your run, you can watch for their commitment and adjust your cue timing accordingly. Good handling is about timing. The commitment point is usually a few strides before the next obstacle on your dog’s line. At those points, you’ll need to be actively telling your dog what’s next. Through motion, position, eye contact, chest, feet, hands and verbal cues. Decide in advance what cue goes where. For example, if you plan a Front Cross at jump #5, you know you must decelerate and cue the cross as your dog approaches #5.
When to handle the line
It helps to remember that dogs will take the path of least resistance unless directed otherwise. If you do nothing, where would your dog naturally go? If that natural path is not what you want, then you must intervene at the right moment. Many times, simply changing when or where you give a cue can drastically change your dog’s line. That’s why handling is often described as an art of communication – you’re communicating the intended path to your dog. As OneMind Dogs coaches like to say, course running is about deciding the best path and handling for your team.
Which agility handling techniques suit YOUR dog?
No two dogs are the same, and a handling move that works for one dog might not be ideal for another. When choosing techniques, consider your dog’s individual traits and your team dynamics:
Speed and drive
Is your dog significantly faster than you, or do they run at a pace you can match? If you have a lightning-fast dog who will outrun you, techniques that allow you to handle from behind or send and go (like a Whisky Cross or Tandem Turn) will allow you to give clear cues even when you are behind. Conversely, if your dog is slower or very handler-focused, you can create more speed by being ahead and shoing more movement. For example with the Japanese handling technique.
Preferred working distance
Some dogs have been trained (or naturally tend) to work at a distance from the handler, while others stick close. A dog with great distance skills and obstacle focus might allow you to execute a handling move farther away. If your dog needs you nearby for confidence or clarity, favor handling that keeps you closer and on the inside of the dog’s line. Finding the right balance between your dog’s independence and your control is key. As OneMind Dogs coaches put it, the best teams balance the dog’s ability to work independently with the handler’s guidance.
Turning ability (collection vs. extension)
How well does your dog collect (slow down and shorten stride) for tight turns? If your dog turns on a dime, you can confidently cue a turn and expect your dog to collect and wrap while you move away. If your dog has a tendency to turn wide, you might choose options that help shape the dog’s line such as a Reverse V-Set.
Confidence and motivation
Does your dog approach sequences boldly, or do they need more encouragement? A confident, obstacle-focused dog might not need as much babysitting. You can send them and trust they’ll take the obstacle, allowing you to get into position for the next handling move. A less confident dog, however, may slow down or question if you race ahead. In that case, you might avoid techniques that require the dog to have strong commitmment. For instance, a Rear Cross might cause a sensitive dog to hesitate if they feel you’re “disappearing” behind them. For dogs that need confidence, sometimes the simpler handling choice that keeps flow are best. Even if it’s not the theoretically fastest line. Their enthusiasm and trust in you is more important than shaving 0.1 seconds with an aggressive maneuver. Always ask, “Will my dog feel supported if I handle it this way?”
Handler strengths
While focusing on the dog, don’t forget your own abilities. If you know you struggle with a certain move (maybe Reverse Spins confuse you or Front Crosses make you lose sight of your dog), take that into account. You can practice and improve weaknesses over time, but on game day, it’s okay to play to your strengths. For example, some handlers have great timing on Front Crosses but aren’t as comfortable with Blinds – or vice versa. Choose what you can execute well under pressure. As your toolbox grows, you’ll have more options to choose from in the future.
By factoring in these elements, you’re effectively customizing the handling plan to your team. For instance, two handlers might walk the same course and choose different strategies. Because one has a high-drive dog that turns well and powers out of a wrap and the other has a small, low drive dog that is faster with a slice. Both plans can be “right” – they’re just right for that team. In practice, you often won’t know for sure which method is fastest or smoothest until you try. Which leads us to the importance of experimentation and examples.
Example Scenarios: Technique A vs. Technique B
Let’s put it all together with a couple of common scenario comparisons. These examples illustrate how you might decide between two handling options:
Reverse Wrap vs. Flick (Backside wrap handling)
Imagine a sequence where the course calls for a backside of a jump followed by a wrap around the wing and back to a tunnel. One option is a Reverse Wrap – which means you’d be on the inside of the turn and cue your dog to square up to the jump, leading them to collect and wrap tightly around the wing. The other option is a Flick. Where you are on the outside of the turn, send your dog to away from you to rap the jump while you move laterally towards the tunnel.
Which to choose? If you can get to the inside of the dog’s line and you’re not in a hurry to get to the next spot after the turn, the Reverse Wrap is ideal. Your dog will turn more tightly and save yardage. However, if you’re trailing behind and your dog is already driving forward and you can’t change sides, a Flick might be safer. It lets you stay off the dog’s line and keep you ahead on course. Use a Reverse Wrap when you need a super tight turn and can be there to cue it. Use a Flick when you need to handle at a distance and get ahead for the next section, accepting a slightly wider turn. It’s not that one is better than the other universally. It’s about what line you need and where you can be.
Blind Cross vs. Rear Cross (Side Change on a Turn)
Consider a scenario where the dog approaches a jump and afterward needs to chage the handling side and turn 45 degrees. You have a choice: execute a Blind Cross if you are ahead of the dog, or send the dog ahead and cross their line behind them, cueing a rear cross. How to decide? Blind Crosses have the advantage of creating more speed as the dog is motivated by your movement and is getting early information by your position. If your dog responds well to that and you can get there in time, it’s a great option. Rear Crosses, on the other hand, can be done even if you’re behind the dog. This can be useful if you couldn’t get ahead or if a blind cross would have left you in your dog’s way.
These scenarios highlight a crucial point: course handling is not one-size-fits-all. Even for the same sequence, different dog-handler teams may opt for different techniques. The goal is to choose the option that best suits your dog’s line and your abilities. When you watch agility runs, you’ll often see handlers tackle a section in various ways. One might front cross, another might rear cross, yet both get a clean run. There’s flexibility in handling, as long as the dog gets the cue in time to follow the correct path.
Pro tip
When training, set up sequences with multiple handling options and try them all. This teaches your dog to understand various cues and gives you data on what yields the best result. You might discover, for example, that for your dog, doing a Rear Cross at a particular type of turn is actually faster than a Blind Cross, even though conventional wisdom might favor the blind. Or vice versa. Use a timer or video to compare if you can – you may be surprised by what you learn.
OneMind Dogs Insights: The 7 Handling Elements
The OneMind Dogs method emphasizes seeing handling from the dog’s perspective. OneMind Dogs coaches often remind us that dogs are mainly reading our body language, not our verbal instructions. In fact, OneMind Dogs identifies seven key “handling elements” that dogs pay attention to. All handling techniques are built from some combination of these elements. These 7 elements, in order of importance to the dog, are: 1) the handler’s movement, 2) the handler’s position relative to the dog, 3) the handler’s connection (eye contact/focus) with the dog, 4) the direction of the handler’s chest (often called the “laser point”), 5) the direction of the handler’s feet, 6) the hand signals, and 7) the verbal commands.
What does that mean for you on course?
It means that how you move and where you are will generally speak louder to your dog than what you say. For example, if your body is moving straight forward, your dog assumes they should also go straight forward. That’s a stronger cue than yelling “Here!” to call them to you. This insight is huge when choosing handling techniques. Pick an option where your natural body cues align with the message you need to send your dog.
If you need your dog to turn tightly, your movement should slow or turn with them. If you keep running forward (perhaps to get to a next spot) but expect a tight turn, you may give “mixed signals”. One part of your body says “go straight” while another says “turn!” Dogs can get confused by that. The OneMind Dogs core rule is that the handler should be consistent and never give mixed signals to the dog.
So as you decide on a handling technique, consider those elements. Will this maneuver allow me to use my movement, position, and alignment to clearly indicate the correct line? A Front Cross, for instance, naturally uses your chest rotation and position to turn the dog (supporting what you want). Whereas a poorly-timed rear cross could momentarily send conflicting info (if you’re still behind pushing forward as the dog takes off, they think “go on”, then suddenly you switch sides). This doesn’t mean rear crosses are bad. It means timing them to match what you want the dog to do is critical.
Either-or: Try different agility handling techniques in a sequence
We’ve covered planning and theory, but handling choices truly come to life when you experiment and observe. The most succesful agility handlers are keen students of the sport. They try new approaches, learn from mistakes, and adapt techniques to fit their team. Here are some parting tips on becoming that kind of adaptable handler.
Train either-or options
When practicing, intentionally set up sequences where you have multiple handling options, and try them all. For example, on a given setup, run it once with a Front Cross, then again with a Rear Cross. Notice how your dog’s behavior or time differs. This not only teaches your dog to read different cues, but it teaches you which option might be optimal. You might find that what you assumed was fastest isn’t, or you might confirm your intuition. It’s a win-win for learning.
Learn by watching
Observation is powerful. When at trials or watching videos, pay attention to how different handlers solve the same challenge. If someone took a path you didn’t even consider, ask yourself why it worked for them. You may pick up creative ideas to try. Conversely, if you see a dog struggle with a certain handling (knocking a bar because the turn was too tight, or going off-course because the handler couldn’t cue the turn in time), analyze what might have caused it. There’s a lesson in every success and failure – including your own. If something didn’t work in your run, think about whether a different technique could have made the difference. And make a note to practice it.
Adapt to your team’s growth
Dogs evolve in their skills and understanding, and so do handlers. A technique that your dog found difficult a year ago (maybe rear crosses were confusing to them because they didn’t have strong commitment) might become easier after more training – which opens that option for you in future courses. Similarly, as you gain experience, you might execute things faster or with better timing. Continuously update your handling toolbox. OneMind Dogs currently uses more than 30 named handling techniques. Interestingly, the first 20 are purely natural reactions by the dog to the handler’s cues. This means your dog already “knows” a lot, as long as you give clear, timely signals. With training, you’re just refining the communication. So keep adding tools, but also keep honing how clearly you use them.
Try different solutions for the same problem
There is often more than one way to navigate a sequence. Don’t get stuck on a single approach. Great coaches will have you try alternative strategies for a sequence to see what fits best. You can do this in your own training. It not only finds what works best, but also makes your dog more versatile and attentive to your cues.
Trust your plan – but be ready to adapt on the fly
Once you’ve chosen a handling plan during the walk-through, commit to it with confidence when running. Second-guessing mid-run often leads to hesitation (and mixed signals to your dog!). That said, dogs are living beings and things don’t always go 100% as planned. If something unexpected happens – say your dog accelerates more than you thought and suddenly you’re behind – sometimes you must adapt in the moment (maybe you had planned a front cross but now a rear is the only option).
These situations are easier to handle if you’ve practiced a broad range of techniques. It’s like having a GPS that can recalculate a new route when you miss a turn. The more you and your dog have practiced, the more readily you can switch gears smoothly. And if you do save a run by ad-libbing, kudos! Later, analyze why the plan didn’t go as expected – it will inform how you walk courses in the future.
Conclusion and Next Steps
Choosing the best handling techniques is part science, part art. By asking the right questions on your course walk, evaluating your dog’s lines, considering your dog’s individual quirks, and leveraging insights from methods like OneMind Dogs, you’ll develop a keen sense for what handling move to use when. Remember that every team is different – the best technique is the one that best supports your dog’s path and confidence. With practice and experience, this decision-making process becomes faster and more intuitive.
If you’re eager to learn more and see these principles in action, we invite you to watch our free 30-minute on-demand webinar on choosing the best handling techniques for your team. In the webinar, we break down real course scenarios and walk you through the process of selecting the optimal handling moves. It’s a fantastic opportunity to deepen your understanding and boost your confidence as an agility handler.
